Archive | Restaurant Review

Poncho 8

Hot and Healthy

Mexican food to go outlets have been springing up all over London in recent years and the trend shows no sign of abating. Many appear to come from the same mould, but one in particular, Poncho 8, stands sombrero and shoulders ahead of the rest. Nellie Nichols saddled up and paid a call. I’ve got this […]

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Make the New Year Go with a Bang Bang

Restaurant Review – Mao Thai I am sitting at what is undoubtedly one of the most glamorous cocktail bars in Fulham. My son Ollie is with me, the night before he goes back to Oxford University, and above us are the most beautiful giant lampshades made of goose feathers. This would definitely be one of […]

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Dinner of Your Dreams

Restaurant Review – Tendido Cuatro I’ve always hated poor imitations of anything. Frankly, if it’s worth copying the only way it will ever be vaguely acceptable is with the right attention to detail, especially when it comes to food. Think instant mash made with boiling water versus fluffy spuds stirred with milk, melting butter and […]

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Put Your Dukes Up

Restaurant Review – The Duke on the Green Traditionally pubs in England were places for drinking with little or no emphasis on food. I remember as a child sitting in pub gardens with my family on the odd warm summer’s evening and being offered the ubiquitous choice of pork scratchings, peanuts, a packet of crisps […]

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Bollywood ‘Hero’ Makes a Dishy Host

Restaurant Review: The Red Onion I have always loved a curry but, let’s face it, they can be rather predictable and disappointing. Without a doubt it’s our own fault, blindly inventing styles like tikka and masala that have never held a candle to the authenticity of Indian food. Time and time again I set off […]

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Catch Cabin Fever for a Superb Steak

I have to say I had almost given up hope. Every time I order a steak in a restaurant I’m disappointed. It’s either the size (ridiculously small), the way it’s been grilled (why don’t they listen?) or just the plain lack of taste (please change your butcher), altogether reminiscent of supermarket meat in neat plastic […]

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